I was reading through a book called "Dressing Up Vintage" by Tracy Tolkien, and was amazed at some of the fashion facts I had no idea about, like did you know that in 1943, billionaire eccentric Howard Hughes, most famous for his contributions to the Aviation industry, invented the Cantilever Underwire Bra? He designed it for his then girlfriend Jane Russell, to be used in the filming of the movie "The Outlaw", and it's sole purpose was to emphasise her already ample assets.
Whilst the book was rather limiting in its substance, it got me intrigued about what other fascinating styles and inventions that may have arisen during the mid part of 1900's. I wanted to completely focus on the Fifties but the more I researched, the more I became overwhelmed with things that occurred before and after the "Golden Era". I put some thought into it, and decided I didn't want this blog to be pigeon-holed into such a limited duration of time, especially as I live and breathe Vintage Fashion, and was shocked to learn that some of the most interesting trends and fashions popularised into being "50s Fashion" nowadays, are actually styles and creations from the Forties and Sixties. For example, a hairstyle that is almost always at any Vintage event or 50's themed party is the 'Victory Roll'. However, unbeknownst to many, this hairstyle is actually a product of the 1940's, and it is rumoured that the rolls were named after the barrel-shaped exhaust fumes left in the sky by the fighter planes during World War II.
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| Dolores Moran sporting Victory Rolls in 1943. |
Researching the different fashions of the different decades is actually a bit of a monumental task, so I will break my "Peek Into the Past" blog up into 3 different entries, starting with the 1940's in today's piece. Stay tuned for the 50s and 60s coming soon!
Fashion Through the Decades.
1940:
Due to the start of the War, fabric rationing meant for shorter lengths in dresses and skirts, the 1930's fashion had hemlines hitting mid-calf but in the 1940's, they became knee-length. The war also inspired a more masculine and militant-look, which brought about the invention of shoulder pads that extended just past the edge of the shoulder. There was no cleavage shown, with the exception of evening wear. Silhouettes were hourglass yet boxy and manly.
The shortage on fabric also led to the rise of the Victory Suit, a two piece suit that was incredibly versatile, comfortable and yet still fashionable. Skirts were A-line and were teamed with blouses and jackets. During the early 40s, skirts did not have pleats and did not flare out as extravegantly as those seen in the next decade, however in the latter part of the 40s, skirts begun to see wider A-lines, some pleating and some even came with pockets. Jackets were made of the same material as the skirts, and hit just at the hip, with the usual wide shoulder padding and nipped in waist. Jackets could be mismatched to the skirts, depending on availability. Blouses worn under the jacket could be either long or short sleeved, with buttons running right down the front and a high neckline.
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| Women sporting the popular Victory Suits. |
Because of the War, which took from home most of the able-bodied men at the time, women began to work in factories, and due to the new need for practicality, women started to wear pants, which before the War, were for men only, just as the workforce they were now entering. To begin with, women would just wear men's pants, however later on, manufacturers started to create women's pants yet they still looked uniquely masculine. Pants were high-waisted, with side zip or buttons and full legs that had wide, heavy bottom cuffs. Usually made from cotton, wool and denim blends, pants were only worn as an item of work wear to start with, however throughout the 1940's, they became a part of casual wear.
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| Women's work wear in the 40s. |
Women's shoes were not elaborately detailed like those of the 30s, and due to the need of leather for the War, shoes were made from other materials such as Reptile skin, velvet, and even wood. Wedges became popular in this decade, and the soles of these were all one piece and only of a moderate height which made them safer for wearing than the likes of Pumps. The Peeptoe was popular however wedges came in different styles, including fun summer, strappy-styled sandals. More popular than wedges were the Saddle and Oxford shoes, which like women's clothing of the time, closely resembled menswear. They came in one or two tones with round toes, and were a favourite of teenagers due to their comfort and casual feel.
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| Saddle shoes of the 1940's. |
After the War ended, women's clothing began to take on a more feminine and elegant feel again. Necklines became soft and rounded, skirts became fuller and more detailed, and button up fronts made way for softer wrap styles. Women were encouraged to return to their homes rather than working in the factories, and so fashion again, adapted to the needs of the everyday woman. In 1947, Christian Dior launched his infamous "New Look" fashion, which paved the way for the more decadent and extravagant styles of the 50s. The "Pinup" look also started to gain popularity, with clothing becoming more form-fitting and tighter.
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| Dior's "New Look" fashion, unveiled in 1947. |
That's all for the Forties, I will be back tomorrow with the Fifties.
Until next time,
Adios darlings xx
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